Introduction
The following questions and answers are based on the many questions
people ask regarding their lovebird. The questions range from those
who have no knowledge what-so-ever of the Genus Agapornis, to those that
have some passing involvement and experience with these parrots.
We sometimes think the greatest challenges occur as one becomes more familiar
with the bird and their experiences and observations do not necessarily
concur with information found in a book. We hope this Chapter can
help provide some answers to your questions and if not, please send
an e-mail with your question to the Lovebirdmutations Group, so that we
may answer you and record your question in this Chapter.
Frequently Asked Questions
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| Are lovebirds really parrots? | Yes. Lovebirds are really parrots. Despite their relatively small size, they come loaded with many of the parrot-like behaviors and personality. Their zygodactyl feet (four toes with two in front and two behind) are dead give away. |
| How long have lovebirds been around? | This is a very difficult question to answer. The species were discovered, trapped and exported / imported at varying times through the 17th and 18th and 19th centuries. In some instances they were present in private collections, long before they were made available to everyone. Various countries also received them at different times.//////// |
| Where do lovebirds come from? | Lovebirds originated in Africa, and all known species and races (6 or 9, depending on how you count) inhabit various countries in Central and Southern Africa, excepting the Madagascar Lovebird, which inhabits the Island of Madagascar, and is the only species to naturally inhabit a region off the continent. |
| Are all lovebird species related ? | Yes, it has been theorized that the various species and sub-species are all related to one another. Admittedly, some species are more closely related to each other than others, but this position s premised on the amount of time between separation of the various groups, in the evolutionary record. DNA analysis is proving an effective tool at helping to solve age old mysteries and disagreements/ |
| What species or sub-species are there? | There are either nine species if you adhere to the official listing.
However, there is a minority that believes that the eye-ring group is actually
descended from Agapornis personatus personatus, which results in
six as opposed to nine species.
Again, the official position is that there are nine species: Agapornis canus
Madagascar Lovebird
Agapornis pullarius
Red-Faced Lovebird
Agapornis taranta
Abyssinian Lovebird
Agapornis swindernianus
Black-Collared Lovebird
Agapornis roseicollis roseicollis
Peachfaced Lovebird
Agapornis personatus
Masked Lovebird
There are also those, in the minority, who view the eye ring group as descended from A.p. personatus or one species with 3 sub-species or races, which accounts for the six species hypothesis: Agapornis personatus personatus
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| Are Lovebirds noisy? | Yes, lovebird are noisy at certain times of the day, and while one
persons noise may be someone else's music, there is no way to avoid the
fact that these creatures are quite vocal. The specific pitch and
irritation of their vocals, depends on the individuals forbearance; the
location of the cage or aviary; whether they are inside or outside, and
which species or sub-species you have acquired.
Be aware that they will compete for noise, so if they are in an active or busy area, their vocalizations will increase. If they are by themselves, you may not notice them for their silence, but acquire two or more and the vocal exchange and discussions within the cage setting or colony setting will begin to escalate. This is something the novice should be aware of. Few animals are silent. On the positive side, lovebirds are definitely not as loud, grating or demanding as larger parrots, but you must take it into account. Some species are definitely quieter than others. |
| Can or do lovebirds talk? | Surprisingly, there is very little information associated with this common question. We know that agapornis canus or the Madagascar Lovebird has been reported as speaking, and there have also been reports of Agapornis roseicollis (Peachfaced Lovebird) speaking. The important element appears to be isolation from others of its kind, until it gets so desperate for communication, that it begins to pick up words in order to be able to communicate with its owner. Some breeders have reported success, even among young birds, but it seems premised on the interaction associated with hand feeding and constant repetition. It is also our understanding that clusters of young birds may also be taught to pick up words with constant repetition. In this event, the bird may relate the words to food or behavior but not necessarily speak. |
| How will you know if a bird is sick, in the store? | This is a difficult question, as there are many ways to tell, but most
people are not that familiar with or wanting to pick up the bird and look
at it in the store. Given this and you are looking at it through
a glass pane or wire panel, you may do the following: watch it for
twenty minutes to half an hour. If it is moving well, is capable of flight
and rapid movement, you can start to feel good about the bird. However,
if it sits quietly on the perch, its feathers look unkempt and are sticking
out at funny angles; the vent or tail area is matted and looks encrusted
with waste, the nares or area over the top of the beak is wet or feathers
are matted together you need to be very careful. If it does not move
or moves infrequently, look for steadiness on the perch, whether it is
perched on one or both feet, the eyes are droopy or alert and whether the
bird looks bigger than the others because the feathers look all fluffed
up. If there are watery droppings around the cage and perches, and the
water and food is soiled or rancid, just leave. If any of the previous
signs are evident, singularly or in combination, it may be advisable to
look somewhere else. If it is sitting unmoving on the floor, and
its feathers are fluffed out and it does not move, the bird is very sick
and will probably need immediate attention. Leave it and go seek
a pet somewhere that is more aware of their birds health.
If you are not afraid to pick up the bird, holding the head gently between the index and second finger, blow on the feathers of the breast and look to see if you see any marring or bruising, feel the breast with your fingers, along the keel, to see how much meat surrounds the bone. This and the size of the area near the vent will tell you if the animal has excessive fatty tissue or conversely is poorly fed. Look over the wings for any signs of damage, broken wings or blood feathers. Checking the head for feather sheaths will tell you if the bird was paired or a loner: the singleton or unpaired bird is unable to reach the top of its head and so sheaths appear white. Paired birds will ot exhibit these sheaths. Check the beak and feet for shape and strength and see how well the feet close. Blow on the nares to make sure the feathers covering them are free flowing and make sure that the wings and tail move and extend as they should. If the eyes re bright and do not look dull or glazed over, you may have a good bird, if you are not seeking something more. |
| Your two birds are fighting: Why and what can you do? | Separate the birds until you know what you have. Introduce a
hen to a cock's cage or both of them into a new cage at the same time.
If fighting continues, use two cages and bring them closer together over
14 days. If the birds seem to be getting along well when cages are
close, let them stay that way for awhile and then introduce the hen into
the cock's cage. Never the other way around if you can help it.
This simplifies things for the beginner.
This is probably one of the most frequent questions from new owners. There are numerous reasons for fighting in the cage, a few of which we will list:
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| Help! Your bird is rubbing its bottom on the stuffed toy - is the bird infected with lice ? | The bird is not infected. The most likely cause for this is that
the bird is kept alone and breeding triggers have it thinking of a mate,
and it has attached itself to the stuffed toy. Occasionally you will
see lovebirds masturbating on favorite toys or perches. This occurs
with both hens and cocks. Males will often engage in this activity
with their caretaker, places range from the hair on the head to even on
the hand. Fluid will often be released onto the hand, toy, stick,
hair or other favorite item of the bird.
This is actually quite an honor, as the bird sees you as its mate and is excited and happy at your presence. Hens will undertake the same action as the male, but fluids are rarely obvious on completion. Some breeders believe that masturbating birds will not breed with hens of their own species, and are ruined. Our experience has been that this is a myth and that the male or female, once they have a partner which can return their amorous advances, they will settle down and generate young. It does not, however, mean that they will forsake the occasional perch, toy or caretaker completely. |
| Why does the water get so dirty? | Lovebirds are interesting little parrots. They like to bathe in fresh clean water, which means water levels will immediately drop. The remaining water is often used for dipping nesting and food material in, birds will defecate in it, if it is not strategically placed. The water needs to be kept clean and filled on a regular basis. If you are feeding pellets or soft foods, it is even more important to change water frequently (2-3x a day). Pellets will break down rapidly and a soupy mixture will develop. This makes it easier for the hen to feed any offspring or to combine drinking and feeding. However, such a mix is very dangerous in warm weather, as bacteria and other micro-organisms grow rapidly. If you want your birds healthy, stay attuned to the water level and keep it clean. We prefer bowls, but others swear by water bottles or automatic drip systems. |
| Is there any way to make your birds quiet | If one uses the words birds, they are referencing multiple birds, whether
two or more. Lovebirds are creatures of habit and their environment.
If you make noise to scare them into silence, it will only result in greater
noise levels, as the bird is excited by the response its actions can generate.
The greater the noise, the greater the response. We have found that
ignoring them, except when cleaning, feeding or checking works best.
A single bird will not generate a terrific amount of noise and may even
quiet right down once it elicits zero response from the owner.
It is very difficult for people to ignore even the best indoor bird, when they have placed their pet near the television or the phone. The birds respond to these sounds by joining in. We have also found that some music seems to quiet them down. It is almost as if they were listening to it and enjoying it! Lights out or a cage cover works well indoors, and dimming of outdoor lights is also helpful. Recognize that bird sounds will increase and decrease four times throughout the day: morning; late morning; mid-afternoon and just before lights out. Visit a breeder in your neighborhood and spend some time to become acquainted with the varying sounds made by different species and races. |
| How do you stop your bird from laying eggs? | We don't worry about this too much. Some breeders do, however,
so will suggest a variety of methods, ensuring that the embryo has not
developed or that cellular division is in the earliest formation:
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| Do lovebirds build the same kind of nests? | No, the various lovebird species and races build different nests, but
if you breed long enough, you will see odd nest structures from birds you
did not expect it of. The most primitive species are A. canus;
A.
pullarius and A. taranta. All of these primitive species
use cavities in the wild for nest buidling, depending on very little to
line the cavity. however, occassionaly one will build a more structured
nest. These birds have done well in vertical, horizontal and diagonal
boxes, although the diagonal and horizontal appear to be preferred.
They enjoy solitude and screening from day to day activities. They
are for the experienced breeder, who is aware of what they are buying.
A.
pullaria is the most difficult, often requiring a lining of corkl or
foam around the interior of the box or solid cork. Apparently the
digging into the nest supplements the breeding urge.
A. roseicollis, the most common (intermediate) lovebird will build a cup shaped nest of paper, straw, grasses or other material. It is relatively easy to get to breed and is a delight to watch, although both noisy and aggressive. It does not seem to mind traffic as much as the previous three species. The advanced species and or races include Agapornis p. personatus; Agapornis p. nigrigenis; Agapornis p. lilianae and agapornis fischeri. All build dome shaped nests with the use of flexible, supple, twigs of the new year's growth. They nest cavity is enclosed, and often make it difficult for the breeder to look in and assess the development. Agapornis nigrigenis is the most advanced species and will include a false chamber above the the real nesting chamber. Supply these quieter lovebirds (A. p. nigrigenis and A. p. lilianae) with the correct material and you will enjoy the softer sounds that they emit. |
| What should you give to your bird to help it make its nest? | Nesting material varies, and is dependent on the species that you are
raising, although almost all will use the same material for building.
What to offer your bird depends very much on your local surroundings and
available materials. Newspaper seems to be the most common, from
a sanitary perspective, particularly where the ink is now derived from
organic material versus petroleum products.
Other wonderful nesting material includes fresh branches and twigs of poplar, willow, birch and other similar trees or hedges. The offerings should be the new years growth and have a fairly small diameter. Honeysuckle has been used in some places with good success, but be sure the variety you use os safe. As well, nothing seems better for structural nesting architecture than the palm fronds that are so common. Most palm fronds seem to work well. Grasses, long grass, that dries quickly and evenly is also highly prized. Sometimes coconut fibres are used with good success and others will use a variety of simple bedding materials such as sawdust, moss, and other items that may be found in a treed environment. Whatever you use, and the options seem lengthy indeed, please ensure that the material is not poisonous; irritating, can become stuck in the chicks throat or around its legs, absorb excess humidity from the nest box, when the eggs require it to hatch, and is clear of chemical sprays or residues and naturally harmful chemicals. |
| Your bird is making a lot of banging sounds in the nestbox, why? | This is usually caused by the hen. She is scraping the base free
of nesting material and beginning to plan or rearrange the nest.
She will also bang or rub her beak on the floor to smooth it or gnaw
on something in the box.
Occasionally you will hear a gnawing or grinding sound, which could be either hen or cock. In this instance, the birds are moving their upper and lower beak in opposite directions, for a little distance and then sawing them back and forth across each other, which is believed to keep the beak sharp. |
| What is egg-binding? | Egg binding is an event that can occur in very young birds as well
as older birds. It can happen to a virgin hen as easily as
it might occur in a mature hen with several nests raised and fledged.
In many ways it is inexplicable. Speculation suggests that the muscles
of the hen are not strong enough to release the egg; the calcium
laid over the egg is not thick enough (soft-shelled egg) or resistant enough
to enable the muscles to contract around it and it stops its downward movement;
the egg is too large to pass; the hen becomes too tired to lay the
egg.
The hen that is exhibiting egg binding is usually noticed because her entire demeanor will change. She will sit puffed up on the perch or on the floor and be indifferent to anyone approaching her. She will also be uncommonly agreeable to your presence and being handled by you. This in itself is indicative of significant problems and potentially pain: something they don't often reveal. The vent area and lower rump will be swollen with evidence of the egg. Handle her with all care and gentleness. Treatment involves a hospital cage, complete with heating lamp and quiet. It is recommended that warm oil or olive oil be rubbed around the vent to assist with the contraction and exiting of the egg. if that fails, please call a vet, as the egg may need to be lanced and the contents removed. Such activity, if performed incorrectly can and will lead to the expiration of your pet in a most painful manner - enteritis. |
| What happened to your bird's eggs / chicks? | Sometimes a hen will lay eggs and get you all excited and when you
return two or three days later , the eggs will be gone. Where did
they go? is the most common question. The answer is multiple:
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| Should you check and candle the eggs? | Most breeders do, but they establish routines that the parent birds
are familiar with. It is important to know when laying commences
and when it stops, in order for the breeder to lend assistance if an egg
does not seem to be responding as it should, or to identify when a chick
is in trouble.
Some would offer a contrary opinion in that eggs should not be handled at all, and if there is no choice, gloves should be warn at all times, as skin to egg contact can transmit disease through the porous egg shell. Others will suggest actually changing bedding or nesting material once the young hatch, because of the mess generated by the young. We are of the mind that this is excessive involvement and that chicks need to be subject to a number of common bacteria if they are to remain strong and healthy. Removing their waste and nesting material, when the adults do not, is a level of interference that reaches far beyond the simple checking and candling of eggs in the nest. Eggs do not need to be removed or touched when the breeder has the correct lighting source and a flexible cable. Washing of eggs is also discouraged because of the likelihood of damaging the developing embryo, chick or drowning it in fluids. |
| When should you candle? | Candling should be done eight days after the first egg.
This should enable you to see the beginnings of a series of veins under
the shell: if it is fertile. If it is not fertile, eight days is
enough to provide you with some certainty that the egg is devoid of life
or hope for it.
Dead in Shell eggs should be removed from the nest, unless some chicks have already hatched,and you want to ensure that the hen does not sit too tightly on the new chicks, by leaving an egg. |
| How often will your lovebirds lay eggs, once they start? | Before we answer the question, we should make it clear that lovebirds
are like any other creature. Once you think you have figured out
their basic reproduction, they do something to surprise you. The
average or at least the expectation for egg laying is one egg every other
day. The hen will, usually ( that word again) not start to sit until
the third egg is laid. However, there are cases where hens will begin
broooding after the first egg or perhaps the second.
One of the reasons breeders look in the box is to be able to address questions of eggs arriving at irregular intervals, so not the usual alternate day affair. Do not be surprised by this, it is simply a part of the variation inherent among lovebirds and other species. With lovebirds, you will be served well by the motto: "expect the unexpected" and you will infrequently be surprised. |
| How many eggs should you expect?
what happens if you have two females? |
If you have a true pair, the average clutch is between 4 and 5 eggs.
Often only three or four of these will hatch. Occassionally, you
may have as few as two or as many as 6 to 9 eggs. If, at five to
eight days you candle the eggs (hold a mini flashlight next to the egg),
you should see viens in the egg. If so, you have a pair and your
eggs are fertile.
Occassionaly, an individual may receive two hens that go through all of the motions of a true pair. Sometimes only one hen will lay eggs, while the other stands guard, like the cock bird. However, the most likely scenario is that both hens will enter the box and lay eggs. The dead give-away is the droppings which, if both are females, will be large, soft and copious (not to mention odorous), as a result of their sitting in the nest for a good part of the day, prior to egg laying actually commencing . Another way to tell is if, when you look in the nestbox, there are two distinct clutches of four or five eggs, rather than a mass of eggs all together. The third trick is to watch the two birds to see if both are carrying material to the nest in their rump feathers. This is fairly obvious in A. roseicollis, but both eye-rings can transport nesting matrial in the beak. The male A. roseicollis seldom carries material in the rump, although it has been reported as performing this task poorly. Some color varieties are believed to produce more eggs, just as some individuals will swear that certain color mutants are less aggressive than others. Don't be afraid to ask questions and make your own determinations. This is simply here as a guide to help you understand some of the issues. |
| Are eggs different sizes, and can you get a larger bird out of a larger egg ? | Lovebird eggs, on the whole, are fairly uniform. Smaller eggs are occassionaly
laid, as are larger eggs. There is a certain expectation that larger
eggs will produce larger birds, but there is no evidence that we are aware
of that would substantiate that belief.
It is important to note that aggressive breeding between the eye-rings may have led to greater variation in egg size, but it is doubtful, and we have never seen any work done in this area. As with the other Agapornis species, few have been crossbred with so many other highly variable varietiesthat the genome becomes a veritable hodge-podge or melting pot of possibilities. Chickens and maybe other avian species that have been heavily crossed and inbred are more likely to evince aberrations in all forms of size and shape - witness the selection of eggs for color and sizing grades |
| How big should a lovebird cage be? | We will err on the side of caution here and state that some people
will keep their birds in cages 18 by 18 x 18 inches or 20 x 20 x 20 inches,
with breeding boxes and bottles outside the cage. While this size
is convenient for breeders, we prefer to provide longer if not necessarily
wider boxes. The lovebird is a very active little parrot and we would
prefer to see them have plenty of flight room, so that they can maintain
the best physical health - through the exertion of flying. Larger
wire cages (breeding cages) may be 2 x 2 x 4 feet. The four feet
gives the birds room to get to know each other and lots of space for the
male (usually) to escape, if the hen is difficult, extremely territorial
or doesn't like the mate selected for her.
Some may have the choice or room for only a small ornamental cage for their bird, which would be acceptable if the bird was allowed out for exercise and used the cage for sleeping in or was restricted to it during parties. While we know that people use fairly small cages for their birds, please remember that these birds are most exciting when you can see them move around and interact with their surroundings. Severely restrictive cages will only damage your parrots personality and health. Those birds held in very small cages are often incapable or at a loss for how to respond when offered a larger accommodation - primarily because their wing strength and muscle tone is so poor that they are unable to fly properly for several months, if then. Another nice cage size is 2 x 1 x 3 feet in length. The two foot height provides plenty of vertical area and room to put perches and toys, while the 3 foot length provides more than sufficient flying space for a pair. A rule of thumb has always been approximately a cubic metre for birds of this size, although that may in reality be considerably less in a colony situation. |
| Can you put your lovebird in with other birds (parrotlets, brown headed parrot and orange-cheeked? | The simple answer is no. Lovebirds do not get along well
with other species of birds, although there is always a small percentage
that seem to do well. The safest approach is to keep your lovebird
in its own dwelling, particularly if you have more than one. If there
is any chance of a non - violent situation, you would be best advised to
acquire a cock, as they are less aggressive than the hens, and not subject
to the same radical seasonal fluctuations or changes in temperament ( as
far as we can determine).
On the bright side, however, it is usually the horror stories that are reported, and not the day to day situations. We have heard that lovebirds have managed to get along with budgerigars, cockatiels and other birds in the Agapornis genus, but these situations with budgerigars and cockatiels involved male lovebirds |
| How can you stop seed hulls and debris falling to the floor? | Wrong bird , wrong question. These are parrots, not finches or
canaries. They consume their food in a very particular fashion. Fruits
and vegetables, as well as water and seed will end up on the floor
and or walls.
The lovebird wipes its beak against perches, cage bars and any wooden, metal or plastic surface it can find. It shakes its food, such that it sprays small pieces against anything in close proximity (10 inches). As well, if the cage is raised, fecal material will escape the conventional cage skirts. The wing beat of the lovebird is rapid enough that skirts on the market, for ornamental cages, do not work well to prevent the lifting and spreading of material off the bottom. Plastic is often hung behind and on the sides of the cage to control the spray of food particles. Even cages with 4 to 6 inch collector bases do not entirely prevent the dissemination of feathers, dust, seed hulls, soft food and other material. This is the primary reason why large scale breeders tend to use concrete, dirt and sometimes tile / ceramic floors in the aviary or colony breeding areas. Similarly everything is built for ease in cleaning and maintenance. A highly ornamental cage is just looking for trouble. Obtain the one with the cleanest line, easy tray removal, stackable, moveable and can be pressure washed, where you breed in the basement or a room in the house (linoleum flooring). Be aware that lovebirds will bite, shred and generally strip linoleum where they can get a beak in to start the destruction.. |
| Where should you put your lovebird? | This is a personal choice, but we would suggest that you consider the
location. If set near a door, the bird will be subject to significant
changes of temperature and lots of activity. If placed in a kitchen
it is subject to a variety of aromas and gases, some of which could be
toxic to your bird (glues; burning material; non stick "teflon" out gassing,
etc...). If it is placed in a living room or family room it may be
subject to noise (t.v.), which it will compete with, causing great frustration.
Pets:
Breeders
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| Can you raise your birds in a colony situation ? | Yes. Raising birds in a colony situation is done by many large
scale breeders, who just do not have the time to look after hundreds of
pairs in separate cages. The cost of labor and other items is too
significant. The large scale breeder does well on a colony based
system, although you will hear from exhibition breeders (show stock) that
colony breeding is an unwise practice, as one cannot determine the parentage
of the offspring with a high gdegree of certainty. If you accept
the argument of pedigree importance in show stock, you must also recognize
how that shoe stock is produced repeatedly. If the nest mates of
a champion are no better than average, you will have to decide for
yourself, in concert with the breeder, whether the "pedigree" is worth
the price.
Colony stock, is more robust and active than caged stock, and seems less prone to health problems, although they are also much more susceptible to a flock infection than paired birds in separate cages. Some breeders feel that birds do not do very well in colony situations because of fighting over nest boxes, inability to feel comfortable brooding etc. All we can say is that we have experienced few problems and much joy over the years. The stock gets along well, they have been raised as colony birds and fighting is minimal although squabbling does occur occassionally. Fighting and squabbles appear to be less among related stock than unrelated stock. Ask lots of questions of knowledgeable breeders in your region, before throwing birds together in a Helter Skelter fashion. Success is usually poor in such situations, unless the breeder has the perseverance to wait, during the early stages, for the stock to cross. These birds will fight, even if nest boxes are abundant. As the relations become more entwined, through different generations and the original birds are slowly or rapidly, replaced by their offspring, the dynamics of the flock will seem to alter for the better: birds become more accepting of close company, but will still bite and nip toes and bump one another. It can be a rewarding effort, if you have the space. Over-crowding is frowned upon in our pristine, bacteria under-attack, world of today, so the breeder needs to make a decision about how they will raise their stock: litter or bug free. |
| How long does it take to build a nest? | This all depends on the species and the available nesting material and conditions. Using A. roseicollis as an example, some individuals reason that it takes 10 days to complete a nest, but it can take even less timeif the pair is experienced and is ready to start breeding. We tend to agree with this timeline in captivity, where everything is available to the birds within a short distance form the nestbox. Occassionally we have seen a good nest built within 3 or 4 days, with grinding and shredding in the nest going on for a few more days. But this is with experienced hens who, for one reason or another, seem to have a strong grip on the material inserted in the rump feathers and drop very little. Occassionaly a virgin hen will also do exceedingly well, although this is the exception versus the rule. Building a nest seems to be a learned or acquired skill, as is carrying the nesting material. Eventually, most are able to develop decent nesting pads that don't threaten the youngsters with spraddle legs. |
| How big should the nestbox be? | Nestbox size is a variable factor, with the birds responding well to
horizontal, vertical and diagonal boxes. A budgie or parakeet box
serves well for the smaller species, but as you move up in size, you may
want to provide a little more room, so that eggs are not damaged when the
birds are frightened off the nest or scramble for some other reason.
Wooden nestbox size varies bcause many individuals build their own, but 5.5 x 6.0 x 7 inches or L-shaped boxes 10 x 5 x 11 inches. Boxes should have access fro viewing the nest with the least disturbance, so a top or side opening or bottom tray. As well, the box may contain a trap (draw) for water, under the nesting site) so that humidity is slowly available for developing eggs and hatching. |
| What do lovebirds eat ? | In captivity, some birds will consume only a very limited variety of
foods, while other birds will eat an unlimited variety of foods.
The feeding response seems to be highly correlated to the availability
of food during the handfeeding or chick through juvenile phase. Those
feeding the greatest variety have birds that are interested and curious
about new foods, while those who feed a very limited or abbreviated mixture
of foods tend to have birds that are reluctant to attempt new foods. Breeders
will often go so far as to prepare special meals or cakes of food and provide
these to the birds at regular intervals. They may also feed seeds,
fruit and vegetables individually or in mixed collections.
Fairly common foods for all species include apples; lettuce (romaine; iceberg;); spinach; cauliflower; parsley; figs; banana; peppers; carrots, grated or thawed and warmed frozen vegetables; broccoli; corn on the cob or from thawed frozen bags (warmed); bean sprouts; fresh grass (grown in small to medium flats); soaked seed; oranges; green grapes; sunflower seed; crushed, whole or ground boiled egg; milk and bread (brown); egg sticks or cookies; unbuttered popcorn; cockatiel mix; pellet food; a variety oif rice; millet; fresh twigs and leaves from poplar, willow etc.... Sometimes a variety of cereals are added to the diet if something seems
to be lacking or because the birds enjoy playing with them. Avoid
the high sugar cereals. Roughage, in the form of brans and cheerios
are appreciated sometimes, as is unbuttered popcorn, infrequently, as a
treat.
It is important for the reader to understand that some of these foods will go rancid in heat very quickly and that it is best o train the birds to understand that they need to eat the provided food quickly, or it will be removed. Soft foods like milk and bread are added during the chick rearing stage, while essentials like cuttle bone (calcium) is added throughout the season to ensure hens have enough calcium in their bones and bodies for the beginning of the breeding season. |
| Your bird will not eat different foods, what can You do ? Is it sick? | The lovebird is not sick, but it may never have seen the food that
you are offering it, it may not like the food or it may simply be reluctant
to try something new. Various methodologies have been incorporated for
working new foods into the lovebird diet, some with success.
The first is to grate or shred the new food up and put it in with the lovebird's favorite food (you can also blend it in a food processor, while taking care to ensure integrity of the food and no turning it into a liquid). The bird may shovel new food out of the hopper with its bill, and ignore it, but eventually perseverance will win out and the bird will eat. Smaller portions are better when trying to get a bird to try a new food. The effort may take three or four weeks of constant addition of the new food (s). Another way is to keep the food within the cage environment for several weeks. As the bird becomes more familiar with the appearance of the fruit vegetable or whatever, it will become curious and begin to nibble on it, eventually learning to eat it and often enjoying it. This is no simple task and can become quite costly when considering the wasted material over several weeks of inducing the bird to eat, and the breeder needs to ensure that the food is kept as fresh as possible and does not grow fungus, turn stale, go rancid or dehydrate. However, if it is an important element in the nutrional state of the bird, the breeder is obliged if not obligated to continue.
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| Do lovebird eat meat? | An interesting question. They do require protein, as do many
animals, including herbivores. Protein is often (and we think most
breeders will tell you that they prefer it) supplied in other ways,
such as through the provision of boiled eggs and a variety of beans (pinto,
kidney, black-eyed).
Raw meat or cooked meat is not something we have ever provided, although lovebirds will occassionaly cannibalize young birds (chicks and juveniles) in specific instances, as will many other species. |
| How old do lovebirds get? | This is a question that has elicited a variety of responses and discussion,
which we will sum up for you here. Most breeders believe that a captive
lovebird will live for 15 to 20 years with care and attention. Some
breeders though, will remove their birds from breeding at 5 to 7 years
of age, despite the fact that they can continue to breed well, far beyond
this age. Unfortunately, there seems to be a fear that the birds
germplasm breaks down with age, and the potential for damaged offspring
increases.
The productive captive breeding age is felt to be between 1 and 6 years for the majority of breeders. Depending on the breeder's goal, the germplasm of certain individuals will be passed on within a number of generations and the original or parent bird becomes inferior to the offspring, at which point it is sold. In the wild, where the birds face continuous culling through a variety of means, the average age has been postulated as 2 1/2 years, which makes sense given the potential loss of life in the nest, parental and juvenile units and weather related struggles, not to mention man's interference. Young birds in the wild begin breeding "activities" or behaviors at approximately two months. When these young birds actually go to nest has not been recorded, as far as we know, although it is likely that they are mature enough following the molt. Captive birds are discouraged from breeding until they re a minimum of 10 to 12 months and some breeders wait as long as 16 months or 2 years (ST) or more before "allowing" the birds to mate. |
| Why are chicks all different sizes? | Lovebirds lay their eggs, usually, on an every other day basis.
The hen usually starts brooding in earnest after the third egg is
laid. However, the hen returns to the box every night and for a good
part of the day, so while the eggs may not be receiving all of the brooding
attention, the early eggs are still developing under the female.
The consequence is chocks that often hatch on alternate days , and this
leaves a huge size discrepancy among the eldest and the most recently hatched.
The mechanism is referreed to as asynchronous laying or hatching, and like
the canary or budgie, some breeders, prefer to remove, replace the
eggs until the third is laid, and then put them back under the hen, so
that they all hatch at the same time. This is a tremendous amount
of work for the hen, and though successful should be undertaken only by
knowledgeable breeders.
The large size discrepancy between the young, (greater with the a lot of eggs), can often result in the youngest being squashed, trampled or starved by their eager, aggressive nest mates. |
| What mutation is the best to get? | The answer here is as individual as there are people. There is no perfect bird or mutation, and you as the purchaser select the mutation or species / sub-species that most appeals to you, fits your own needs and expectations and is something you admire. Most individuals can afford the more common varieties or mutations, but they start to increase quickly in price and restricted availability as you seek out new mutations. Several years will pass before you ever obtain an opportunity to buy a relatively established mutation at a reasonable cost (or at least at a cost that reflects other mutation values on the market). |
| Is it okay to cross lovebird species? | No. The various lovebird groupings have been subject to tremendous
hybridization in the past in order to develop new colors. However,
this was usually accomplished through the hands of skilled, knowledgeable
experts.
The problem is that many breeders undoubtedly tried the same thing (introducing a new color or a new mutation) and when they lost patience or interest, the cross bred birds were improperly disposed of, going to the pet mart instead of being destroyed. Today many beautiful examples of the color variation exists in a number of races, the eye-ring being the most prevalent. Unfortunately, the eye-ring group is also the most pressed in terms of loss of territory, loss of population and on-going climactic and human pressures. The aim of transmutation and hybridizing must be clear and it should
be valued for what it has accomplised, but breeders need to know that they
must always be careful and vigilant of
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| Will a peachfaced and an eyering produce young? | The answer in this case needs a caveat: look to previous question.
Yes, is the answer. Peachfaced and eye-ring crosses will produce
offspring. For the most part the chromosomes are different enough
that people believe that the offspring of peachfaced and eye-rings are
sterile or mules. For the most part this is true. However,
this seems based on the desire to produce offspring immediately from the
combined offspring. This rarely occurs, and leads people to draw
the conlusions that the offspring are all mules or hybrids. The reality
is that whatever separates the Peachfaced and the eye-ring seems to require
a longer "gestation" period, if we can use that term. At two
years of age, it has infrequently been found that the offspring are indeed
fertile, and capable of siring offspring. When people are not warned
of this eventuallity and shove the bird in with a similar looking bird
( dependent on the similarity with parental cross), the birds get down
to business and the next generation (sometime more pure of feature than
the hybrid parent), is fledged, the problems have begun.
Some would say it is irresponsible to say that such offspring are fertile, others will state it is irresponsible not to tell owners that their bird is a hybrid with potential reproductive ability, while still more will say it is irresponsible to worry people people about something that occurs only infrequently. Who is responsible if everyone is irresponsible and the potential is not discussed and no discussion ensues or is encouraged ? All we ask is that you take this bit of information to heart and talk to your local breeder. The information and advice they provide you with will inform you as to their dedication and committment towards keeping our birds genomes as similar to the genomes present in the wild as we can. |
| Can you place a hybrid in with your single, pure bird? | Yes, you can. It offers the possibility of friendship and a whiling
away of the hours of solitude for the single bird, finally being offered
24/7 company. However, if you are goiung to undertake such an action,
please ensure that a rearing or nestbox is not made available and that
eggs are removed as they are laid, if one is a hen. This will prevent
the much harder, wrenching task of having to deal with offspring in the
nest. So while we encourage the introduction from the loneliness
perspective of the single bird, we ask you to be vigilant and dilligent
in making your own life, and the lives of others less difficult.
Two males or two females is not an issue, except in the case of two females, where you would be better off introducing both birds into a new cage at the same time. If you are introdcing birds, please ensure that it is the hen that goes into the cocks cage, not the other way around. Preferably a new cage, which the hen hasn't staked out as her own territory and feels less inclined to defend. |
| Do you have a transmutation, and how should you care for it? | Please read the rest of the the e-book for the answer to this question, as the answer is quite lengthy and dependent on the species or race of lovebird that you have. |
| Are hybrids easy to recognize? | This requires a very detailed answer, but for simplicity's sake, we
will say No. There is great debate over what constitutes a hybrid
bird, and more often than not it comes down to slight color hues, tints
or shadowing, where it is not immediately made apparent by an obviously
glaring fault.
The issue tends to be highly divisive, and tend to be more of a discussion point with experts who have particiapted in judging, shows and breeding, and have a good idea where faults may occur, based on comparison with site specific color expectations, mor having witnessed a cross of known hybrid origin. In general, the new or even experienced breeder may be hard pressed to identify a hybrid that has been purified, although that does not mean that an occassionaly excellent bird will not pop up from a scruffy pairing. Most people do not want to hear or speak of hybrids (hear and speak no evil) and make it very difficult for others to get a handle on the possibilities and what they should be looking for. Societies in particular will talk about the damage done by inadvertent hybridization or hybridization / transmutation that was not followed through on, but thye will not post examples of hybrids so that people may gain greater understanding and be able to identify key signs in a breeder's aviary or in the pet store. To many, a lovebird is a lovebird and if it looks a little different, they think perhaps they have lucked onto a new mutation. The same thoughts pass through their mind when the hybrids (transmutated stock) produce offspring that can look quite different form the pair. |
Frequently Asked Questions
Genus Agapornis
Introduction
The following questions and answers are based on the many questions
people ask regarding their lovebird. The questions range from those
who have no knowledge what-so-ever of the Genus Agapornis, to those that
have some passing involvement and experience with these parrots.
We sometimes think the greatest challenges occur as one becomes more familiar
with the bird and their experiences and observations do not necessarily
concur with information found in a book. We hope this Chapter can
help provide some answers to your questions and if not, please send
an e-mail with your question to the Lovebirdmutations Group, so that we
may answer you and record your question in this Chapter.
Frequently Asked Questions
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| Are lovebirds really parrots? | Yes. Lovebirds are really parrots. Despite their relatively small size, they come loaded with many of the parrot-like behaviors and personality. Their zygodactyl feet (four toes with two in front and two behind) are dead give away. |
| How long have lovebirds been around? | This is a very difficult question to answer. The species were discovered, trapped and exported / imported at varying times through the 17th and 18th and 19th centuries. In some instances they were present in private collections, long before they were made available to everyone. Various countries also received them at different times.//////// |
| Where do lovebirds come from? | Lovebirds originated in Africa, and all known species and races (6 or 9, depending on how you count) inhabit various countries in Central and Southern Africa, excepting the Madagascar Lovebird, which inhabits the Island of Madagascar, and is the only species to naturally inhabit a region off the continent. |
| Are all lovebird species related ? | Yes, it has been theorized that the various species and sub-species are all related to one another. Admittedly, some species are more closely related to each other than others, but this position s premised on the amount of time between separation of the various groups, in the evolutionary record. DNA analysis is proving an effective tool at helping to solve age old mysteries and disagreements/ |
| What species or sub-species are there? | There are either nine species if you adhere to the official listing.
However, there is a minority that believes that the eye-ring group is actually
descended from Agapornis personatus personatus, which results in
six as opposed to nine species.
Again, the official position is that there are nine species: Agapornis canus
Madagascar Lovebird
Agapornis pullarius
Red-Faced Lovebird
Agapornis taranta
Abyssinian Lovebird
Agapornis swindernianus
Black-Collared Lovebird
Agapornis roseicollis roseicollis
Peachfaced Lovebird
Agapornis personatus
Masked Lovebird
There are also those, in the minority, who view the eye ring group as descended from A.p. personatus or one species with 3 sub-species or races, which accounts for the six species hypothesis: Agapornis personatus personatus
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| Are Lovebirds noisy? | Yes, lovebird are noisy at certain times of the day, and while one
persons noise may be someone else's music, there is no way to avoid the
fact that these creatures are quite vocal. The specific pitch and
irritation of their vocals, depends on the individuals forbearance; the
location of the cage or aviary; whether they are inside or outside, and
which species or sub-species you have acquired.
Be aware that they will compete for noise, so if they are in an active or busy area, their vocalizations will increase. If they are by themselves, you may not notice them for their silence, but acquire two or more and the vocal exchange and discussions within the cage setting or colony setting will begin to escalate. This is something the novice should be aware of. Few animals are silent. On the positive side, lovebirds are definitely not as loud, grating or demanding as larger parrots, but you must take it into account. Some species are definitely quieter than others. |
| Can or do lovebirds talk? | Surprisingly, there is very little information associated with this common question. We know that agapornis canus or the Madagascar Lovebird has been reported as speaking, and there have also been reports of Agapornis roseicollis (Peachfaced Lovebird) speaking. The important element appears to be isolation from others of its kind, until it gets so desperate for communication, that it begins to pick up words in order to be able to communicate with its owner. Some breeders have reported success, even among young birds, but it seems premised on the interaction associated with hand feeding and constant repetition. It is also our understanding that clusters of young birds may also be taught to pick up words with constant repetition. In this event, the bird may relate the words to food or behavior but not necessarily speak. |
| How will you know if a bird is sick, in the store? | This is a difficult question, as there are many ways to tell, but most
people are not that familiar with or wanting to pick up the bird and look
at it in the store. Given this and you are looking at it through
a glass pane or wire panel, you may do the following: watch it for
twenty minutes to half an hour. If it is moving well, is capable of flight
and rapid movement, you can start to feel good about the bird. However,
if it sits quietly on the perch, its feathers look unkempt and are sticking
out at funny angles; the vent or tail area is matted and looks encrusted
with waste, the nares or area over the top of the beak is wet or feathers
are matted together you need to be very careful. If it does not move
or moves infrequently, look for steadiness on the perch, whether it is
perched on one or both feet, the eyes are droopy or alert and whether the
bird looks bigger than the others because the feathers look all fluffed
up. If there are watery droppings around the cage and perches, and the
water and food is soiled or rancid, just leave. If any of the previous
signs are evident, singularly or in combination, it may be advisable to
look somewhere else. If it is sitting unmoving on the floor, and
its feathers are fluffed out and it does not move, the bird is very sick
and will probably need immediate attention. Leave it and go seek
a pet somewhere that is more aware of their birds health.
If you are not afraid to pick up the bird, holding the head gently between the index and second finger, blow on the feathers of the breast and look to see if you see any marring or bruising, feel the breast with your fingers, along the keel, to see how much meat surrounds the bone. This and the size of the area near the vent will tell you if the animal has excessive fatty tissue or conversely is poorly fed. Look over the wings for any signs of damage, broken wings or blood feathers. Checking the head for feather sheaths will tell you if the bird was paired or a loner: the singleton or unpaired bird is unable to reach the top of its head and so sheaths appear white. Paired birds will ot exhibit these sheaths. Check the beak and feet for shape and strength and see how well the feet close. Blow on the nares to make sure the feathers covering them are free flowing and make sure that the wings and tail move and extend as they should. If the eyes re bright and do not look dull or glazed over, you may have a good bird, if you are not seeking something more. |
| Your two birds are fighting: Why and what can you do? | Separate the birds until you know what you have. Introduce a
hen to a cock's cage or both of them into a new cage at the same time.
If fighting continues, use two cages and bring them closer together over
14 days. If the birds seem to be getting along well when cages are
close, let them stay that way for awhile and then introduce the hen into
the cock's cage. Never the other way around if you can help it.
This simplifies things for the beginner.
This is probably one of the most frequent questions from new owners. There are numerous reasons for fighting in the cage, a few of which we will list:
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| Help! Your bird is rubbing its bottom on the stuffed toy - is the bird infected with lice ? | The bird is not infected. The most likely cause for this is that
the bird is kept alone and breeding triggers have it thinking of a mate,
and it has attached itself to the stuffed toy. Occasionally you will
see lovebirds masturbating on favorite toys or perches. This occurs
with both hens and cocks. Males will often engage in this activity
with their caretaker, places range from the hair on the head to even on
the hand. Fluid will often be released onto the hand, toy, stick,
hair or other favorite item of the bird.
This is actually quite an honor, as the bird sees you as its mate and is excited and happy at your presence. Hens will undertake the same action as the male, but fluids are rarely obvious on completion. Some breeders believe that masturbating birds will not breed with hens of their own species, and are ruined. Our experience has been that this is a myth and that the male or female, once they have a partner which can return their amorous advances, they will settle down and generate young. It does not, however, mean that they will forsake the occasional perch, toy or caretaker completely. |
| Why does the water get so dirty? | Lovebirds are interesting little parrots. They like to bathe in fresh clean water, which means water levels will immediately drop. The remaining water is often used for dipping nesting and food material in, birds will defecate in it, if it is not strategically placed. The water needs to be kept clean and filled on a regular basis. If you are feeding pellets or soft foods, it is even more important to change water frequently (2-3x a day). Pellets will break down rapidly and a soupy mixture will develop. This makes it easier for the hen to feed any offspring or to combine drinking and feeding. However, such a mix is very dangerous in warm weather, as bacteria and other micro-organisms grow rapidly. If you want your birds healthy, stay attuned to the water level and keep it clean. We prefer bowls, but others swear by water bottles or automatic drip systems. |
| Is there any way to make your birds quiet | If one uses the words birds, they are referencing multiple birds, whether
two or more. Lovebirds are creatures of habit and their environment.
If you make noise to scare them into silence, it will only result in greater
noise levels, as the bird is excited by the response its actions can generate.
The greater the noise, the greater the response. We have found that
ignoring them, except when cleaning, feeding or checking works best.
A single bird will not generate a terrific amount of noise and may even
quiet right down once it elicits zero response from the owner.
It is very difficult for people to ignore even the best indoor bird, when they have placed their pet near the television or the phone. The birds respond to these sounds by joining in. We have also found that some music seems to quiet them down. It is almost as if they were listening to it and enjoying it! Lights out or a cage cover works well indoors, and dimming of outdoor lights is also helpful. Recognize that bird sounds will increase and decrease four times throughout the day: morning; late morning; mid-afternoon and just before lights out. Visit a breeder in your neighborhood and spend some time to become acquainted with the varying sounds made by different species and races. |
| How do you stop your bird from laying eggs? | We don't worry about this too much. Some breeders do, however,
so will suggest a variety of methods, ensuring that the embryo has not
developed or that cellular division is in the earliest formation:
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| Do lovebirds build the same kind of nests? | No, the various lovebird species and races build different nests, but
if you breed long enough, you will see odd nest structures from birds you
did not expect it of. The most primitive species are A. canus;
A.
pullarius and A. taranta. All of these primitive species
use cavities in the wild for nest buidling, depending on very little to
line the cavity. however, occassionaly one will build a more structured
nest. These birds have done well in vertical, horizontal and diagonal
boxes, although the diagonal and horizontal appear to be preferred.
They enjoy solitude and screening from day to day activities. They
are for the experienced breeder, who is aware of what they are buying.
A.
pullaria is the most difficult, often requiring a lining of corkl or
foam around the interior of the box or solid cork. Apparently the
digging into the nest supplements the breeding urge.
A. roseicollis, the most common (intermediate) lovebird will build a cup shaped nest of paper, straw, grasses or other material. It is relatively easy to get to breed and is a delight to watch, although both noisy and aggressive. It does not seem to mind traffic as much as the previous three species. The advanced species and or races include Agapornis p. personatus; Agapornis p. nigrigenis; Agapornis p. lilianae and agapornis fischeri. All build dome shaped nests with the use of flexible, supple, twigs of the new year's growth. They nest cavity is enclosed, and often make it difficult for the breeder to look in and assess the development. Agapornis nigrigenis is the most advanced species and will include a false chamber above the the real nesting chamber. Supply these quieter lovebirds (A. p. nigrigenis and A. p. lilianae) with the correct material and you will enjoy the softer sounds that they emit. |
| What should you give to your bird to help it make its nest? | Nesting material varies, and is dependent on the species that you are
raising, although almost all will use the same material for building.
What to offer your bird depends very much on your local surroundings and
available materials. Newspaper seems to be the most common, from
a sanitary perspective, particularly where the ink is now derived from
organic material versus petroleum products.
Other wonderful nesting material includes fresh branches and twigs of poplar, willow, birch and other similar trees or hedges. The offerings should be the new years growth and have a fairly small diameter. Honeysuckle has been used in some places with good success, but be sure the variety you use os safe. As well, nothing seems better for structural nesting architecture than the palm fronds that are so common. Most palm fronds seem to work well. Grasses, long grass, that dries quickly and evenly is also highly prized. Sometimes coconut fibres are used with good success and others will use a variety of simple bedding materials such as sawdust, moss, and other items that may be found in a treed environment. Whatever you use, and the options seem lengthy indeed, please ensure that the material is not poisonous; irritating, can become stuck in the chicks throat or around its legs, absorb excess humidity from the nest box, when the eggs require it to hatch, and is clear of chemical sprays or residues and naturally harmful chemicals. |
| Your bird is making a lot of banging sounds in the nestbox, why? | This is usually caused by the hen. She is scraping the base free
of nesting material and beginning to plan or rearrange the nest.
She will also bang or rub her beak on the floor to smooth it or gnaw
on something in the box.
Occasionally you will hear a gnawing or grinding sound, which could be either hen or cock. In this instance, the birds are moving their upper and lower beak in opposite directions, for a little distance and then sawing them back and forth across each other, which is believed to keep the beak sharp. |
| What is egg-binding? | Egg binding is an event that can occur in very young birds as well
as older birds. It can happen to a virgin hen as easily as
it might occur in a mature hen with several nests raised and fledged.
In many ways it is inexplicable. Speculation suggests that the muscles
of the hen are not strong enough to release the egg; the calcium
laid over the egg is not thick enough (soft-shelled egg) or resistant enough
to enable the muscles to contract around it and it stops its downward movement;
the egg is too large to pass; the hen becomes too tired to lay the
egg.
The hen that is exhibiting egg binding is usually noticed because her entire demeanor will change. She will sit puffed up on the perch or on the floor and be indifferent to anyone approaching her. She will also be uncommonly agreeable to your presence and being handled by you. This in itself is indicative of significant problems and potentially pain: something they don't often reveal. The vent area and lower rump will be swollen with evidence of the egg. Handle her with all care and gentleness. Treatment involves a hospital cage, complete with heating lamp and quiet. It is recommended that warm oil or olive oil be rubbed around the vent to assist with the contraction and exiting of the egg. if that fails, please call a vet, as the egg may need to be lanced and the contents removed. Such activity, if performed incorrectly can and will lead to the expiration of your pet in a most painful manner - enteritis. |
| What happened to your bird's eggs / chicks? | Sometimes a hen will lay eggs and get you all excited and when you
return two or three days later , the eggs will be gone. Where did
they go? is the most common question. The answer is multiple:
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| Should you check and candle the eggs? | Most breeders do, but they establish routines that the parent birds
are familiar with. It is important to know when laying commences
and when it stops, in order for the breeder to lend assistance if an egg
does not seem to be responding as it should, or to identify when a chick
is in trouble.
Some would offer a contrary opinion in that eggs should not be handled at all, and if there is no choice, gloves should be warn at all times, as skin to egg contact can transmit disease through the porous egg shell. Others will suggest actually changing bedding or nesting material once the young hatch, because of the mess generated by the young. We are of the mind that this is excessive involvement and that chicks need to be subject to a number of common bacteria if they are to remain strong and healthy. Removing their waste and nesting material, when the adults do not, is a level of interference that reaches far beyond the simple checking and candling of eggs in the nest. Eggs do not need to be removed or touched when the breeder has the correct lighting source and a flexible cable. Washing of eggs is also discouraged because of the likelihood of damaging the developing embryo, chick or drowning it in fluids. |
| When should you candle? | Candling should be done eight days after the first egg.
This should enable you to see the beginnings of a series of veins under
the shell: if it is fertile. If it is not fertile, eight days is
enough to provide you with some certainty that the egg is devoid of life
or hope for it.
Dead in Shell eggs should be removed from the nest, unless some chicks have already hatched,and you want to ensure that the hen does not sit too tightly on the new chicks, by leaving an egg. |
| How often will your lovebirds lay eggs, once they start? | Before we answer the question, we should make it clear that lovebirds
are like any other creature. Once you think you have figured out
their basic reproduction, they do something to surprise you. The
average or at least the expectation for egg laying is one egg every other
day. The hen will, usually ( that word again) not start to sit until
the third egg is laid. However, there are cases where hens will begin
broooding after the first egg or perhaps the second.
One of the reasons breeders look in the box is to be able to address questions of eggs arriving at irregular intervals, so not the usual alternate day affair. Do not be surprised by this, it is simply a part of the variation inherent among lovebirds and other species. With lovebirds, you will be served well by the motto: "expect the unexpected" and you will infrequently be surprised. |
| How many eggs should you expect?
what happens if you have two females? |
If you have a true pair, the average clutch is between 4 and 5 eggs.
Often only three or four of these will hatch. Occassionally, you
may have as few as two or as many as 6 to 9 eggs. If, at five to
eight days you candle the eggs (hold a mini flashlight next to the egg),
you should see viens in the egg. If so, you have a pair and your
eggs are fertile.
Occassionaly, an individual may receive two hens that go through all of the motions of a true pair. Sometimes only one hen will lay eggs, while the other stands guard, like the cock bird. However, the most likely scenario is that both hens will enter the box and lay eggs. The dead give-away is the droppings which, if both are females, will be large, soft and copious (not to mention odorous), as a result of their sitting in the nest for a good part of the day, prior to egg laying actually commencing . Another way to tell is if, when you look in the nestbox, there are two distinct clutches of four or five eggs, rather than a mass of eggs all together. The third trick is to watch the two birds to see if both are carrying material to the nest in their rump feathers. This is fairly obvious in A. roseicollis, but both eye-rings can transport nesting matrial in the beak. The male A. roseicollis seldom carries material in the rump, although it has been reported as performing this task poorly. Some color varieties are believed to produce more eggs, just as some individuals will swear that certain color mutants are less aggressive than others. Don't be afraid to ask questions and make your own determinations. This is simply here as a guide to help you understand some of the issues. |
| Are eggs different sizes, and can you get a larger bird out of a larger egg ? | Lovebird eggs, on the whole, are fairly uniform. Smaller eggs are occassionaly
laid, as are larger eggs. There is a certain expectation that larger
eggs will produce larger birds, but there is no evidence that we are aware
of that would substantiate that belief.
It is important to note that aggressive breeding between the eye-rings may have led to greater variation in egg size, but it is doubtful, and we have never seen any work done in this area. As with the other Agapornis species, few have been crossbred with so many other highly variable varietiesthat the genome becomes a veritable hodge-podge or melting pot of possibilities. Chickens and maybe other avian species that have been heavily crossed and inbred are more likely to evince aberrations in all forms of size and shape - witness the selection of eggs for color and sizing grades |
| How big should a lovebird cage be? | We will err on the side of caution here and state that some people
will keep their birds in cages 18 by 18 x 18 inches or 20 x 20 x 20 inches,
with breeding boxes and bottles outside the cage. While this size
is convenient for breeders, we prefer to provide longer if not necessarily
wider boxes. The lovebird is a very active little parrot and we would
prefer to see them have plenty of flight room, so that they can maintain
the best physical health - through the exertion of flying. Larger
wire cages (breeding cages) may be 2 x 2 x 4 feet. The four feet
gives the birds room to get to know each other and lots of space for the
male (usually) to escape, if the hen is difficult, extremely territorial
or doesn't like the mate selected for her.
Some may have the choice or room for only a small ornamental cage for their bird, which would be acceptable if the bird was allowed out for exercise and used the cage for sleeping in or was restricted to it during parties. While we know that people use fairly small cages for their birds, please remember that these birds are most exciting when you can see them move around and interact with their surroundings. Severely restrictive cages will only damage your parrots personality and health. Those birds held in very small cages are often incapable or at a loss for how to respond when offered a larger accommodation - primarily because their wing strength and muscle tone is so poor that they are unable to fly properly for several months, if then. Another nice cage size is 2 x 1 x 3 feet in length. The two foot height provides plenty of vertical area and room to put perches and toys, while the 3 foot length provides more than sufficient flying space for a pair. A rule of thumb has always been approximately a cubic metre for birds of this size, although that may in reality be considerably less in a colony situation. |
| Can you put your lovebird in with other birds (parrotlets, brown headed parrot and orange-cheeked? | The simple answer is no. Lovebirds do not get along well
with other species of birds, although there is always a small percentage
that seem to do well. The safest approach is to keep your lovebird
in its own dwelling, particularly if you have more than one. If there
is any chance of a non - violent situation, you would be best advised to
acquire a cock, as they are less aggressive than the hens, and not subject
to the same radical seasonal fluctuations or changes in temperament ( as
far as we can determine).
On the bright side, however, it is usually the horror stories that are reported, and not the day to day situations. We have heard that lovebirds have managed to get along with budgerigars, cockatiels and other birds in the Agapornis genus, but these situations with budgerigars and cockatiels involved male lovebirds |
| How can you stop seed hulls and debris falling to the floor? | Wrong bird , wrong question. These are parrots, not finches or
canaries. They consume their food in a very particular fashion. Fruits
and vegetables, as well as water and seed will end up on the floor
and or walls.
The lovebird wipes its beak against perches, cage bars and any wooden, metal or plastic surface it can find. It shakes its food, such that it sprays small pieces against anything in close proximity (10 inches). As well, if the cage is raised, fecal material will escape the conventional cage skirts. The wing beat of the lovebird is rapid enough that skirts on the market, for ornamental cages, do not work well to prevent the lifting and spreading of material off the bottom. Plastic is often hung behind and on the sides of the cage to control the spray of food particles. Even cages with 4 to 6 inch collector bases do not entirely prevent the dissemination of feathers, dust, seed hulls, soft food and other material. This is the primary reason why large scale breeders tend to use concrete, dirt and sometimes tile / ceramic floors in the aviary or colony breeding areas. Similarly everything is built for ease in cleaning and maintenance. A highly ornamental cage is just looking for trouble. Obtain the one with the cleanest line, easy tray removal, stackable, moveable and can be pressure washed, where you breed in the basement or a room in the house (linoleum flooring). Be aware that lovebirds will bite, shred and generally strip linoleum where they can get a beak in to start the destruction.. |
| Where should you put your lovebird? | This is a personal choice, but we would suggest that you consider the
location. If set near a door, the bird will be subject to significant
changes of temperature and lots of activity. If placed in a kitchen
it is subject to a variety of aromas and gases, some of which could be
toxic to your bird (glues; burning material; non stick "teflon" out gassing,
etc...). If it is placed in a living room or family room it may be
subject to noise (t.v.), which it will compete with, causing great frustration.
Pets:
Breeders
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| Can you raise your birds in a colony situation ? | Yes. Raising birds in a colony situation is done by many large
scale breeders, who just do not have the time to look after hundreds of
pairs in separate cages. The cost of labor and other items is too
significant. The large scale breeder does well on a colony based
system, although you will hear from exhibition breeders (show stock) that
colony breeding is an unwise practice, as one cannot determine the parentage
of the offspring with a high gdegree of certainty. If you accept
the argument of pedigree importance in show stock, you must also recognize
how that shoe stock is produced repeatedly. If the nest mates of
a champion are no better than average, you will have to decide for
yourself, in concert with the breeder, whether the "pedigree" is worth
the price.
Colony stock, is more robust and active than caged stock, and seems less prone to health problems, although they are also much more susceptible to a flock infection than paired birds in separate cages. Some breeders feel that birds do not do very well in colony situations because of fighting over nest boxes, inability to feel comfortable brooding etc. All we can say is that we have experienced few problems and much joy over the years. The stock gets along well, they have been raised as colony birds and fighting is minimal although squabbling does occur occassionally. Fighting and squabbles appear to be less among related stock than unrelated stock. Ask lots of questions of knowledgeable breeders in your region, before throwing birds together in a Helter Skelter fashion. Success is usually poor in such situations, unless the breeder has the perseverance to wait, during the early stages, for the stock to cross. These birds will fight, even if nest boxes are abundant. As the relations become more entwined, through different generations and the original birds are slowly or rapidly, replaced by their offspring, the dynamics of the flock will seem to alter for the better: birds become more accepting of close company, but will still bite and nip toes and bump one another. It can be a rewarding effort, if you have the space. Over-crowding is frowned upon in our pristine, bacteria under-attack, world of today, so the breeder needs to make a decision about how they will raise their stock: litter or bug free. |
| How long does it take to build a nest? | This all depends on the species and the available nesting material and conditions. Using A. roseicollis as an example, some individuals reason that it takes 10 days to complete a nest, but it can take even less timeif the pair is experienced and is ready to start breeding. We tend to agree with this timeline in captivity, where everything is available to the birds within a short distance form the nestbox. Occassionally we have seen a good nest built within 3 or 4 days, with grinding and shredding in the nest going on for a few more days. But this is with experienced hens who, for one reason or another, seem to have a strong grip on the material inserted in the rump feathers and drop very little. Occassionaly a virgin hen will also do exceedingly well, although this is the exception versus the rule. Building a nest seems to be a learned or acquired skill, as is carrying the nesting material. Eventually, most are able to develop decent nesting pads that don't threaten the youngsters with spraddle legs. |
| How big should the nestbox be? | Nestbox size is a variable factor, with the birds responding well to
horizontal, vertical and diagonal boxes. A budgie or parakeet box
serves well for the smaller species, but as you move up in size, you may
want to provide a little more room, so that eggs are not damaged when the
birds are frightened off the nest or scramble for some other reason.
Wooden nestbox size varies bcause many individuals build their own, but 5.5 x 6.0 x 7 inches or L-shaped boxes 10 x 5 x 11 inches. Boxes should have access fro viewing the nest with the least disturbance, so a top or side opening or bottom tray. As well, the box may contain a trap (draw) for water, under the nesting site) so that humidity is slowly available for developing eggs and hatching. |
| What do lovebirds eat ? | In captivity, some birds will consume only a very limited variety of
foods, while other birds will eat an unlimited variety of foods.
The feeding response seems to be highly correlated to the availability
of food during the handfeeding or chick through juvenile phase. Those
feeding the greatest variety have birds that are interested and curious
about new foods, while those who feed a very limited or abbreviated mixture
of foods tend to have birds that are reluctant to attempt new foods. Breeders
will often go so far as to prepare special meals or cakes of food and provide
these to the birds at regular intervals. They may also feed seeds,
fruit and vegetables individually or in mixed collections.
Fairly common foods for all species include apples; lettuce (romaine; iceberg;); spinach; cauliflower; parsley; figs; banana; peppers; carrots, grated or thawed and warmed frozen vegetables; broccoli; corn on the cob or from thawed frozen bags (warmed); bean sprouts; fresh grass (grown in small to medium flats); soaked seed; oranges; green grapes; sunflower seed; crushed, whole or ground boiled egg; milk and bread (brown); egg sticks or cookies; unbuttered popcorn; cockatiel mix; pellet food; a variety oif rice; millet; fresh twigs and leaves from poplar, willow etc.... Sometimes a variety of cereals are added to the diet if something seems
to be lacking or because the birds enjoy playing with them. Avoid
the high sugar cereals. Roughage, in the form of brans and cheerios
are appreciated sometimes, as is unbuttered popcorn, infrequently, as a
treat.
It is important for the reader to understand that some of these foods will go rancid in heat very quickly and that it is best o train the birds to understand that they need to eat the provided food quickly, or it will be removed. Soft foods like milk and bread are added during the chick rearing stage, while essentials like cuttle bone (calcium) is added throughout the season to ensure hens have enough calcium in their bones and bodies for the beginning of the breeding season. |
| Your bird will not eat different foods, what can You do ? Is it sick? | The lovebird is not sick, but it may never have seen the food that
you are offering it, it may not like the food or it may simply be reluctant
to try something new. Various methodologies have been incorporated for
working new foods into the lovebird diet, some with success.
The first is to grate or shred the new food up and put it in with the lovebird's favorite food (you can also blend it in a food processor, while taking care to ensure integrity of the food and no turning it into a liquid). The bird may shovel new food out of the hopper with its bill, and ignore it, but eventually perseverance will win out and the bird will eat. Smaller portions are better when trying to get a bird to try a new food. The effort may take three or four weeks of constant addition of the new food (s). Another way is to keep the food within the cage environment for several weeks. As the bird becomes more familiar with the appearance of the fruit vegetable or whatever, it will become curious and begin to nibble on it, eventually learning to eat it and often enjoying it. This is no simple task and can become quite costly when considering the wasted material over several weeks of inducing the bird to eat, and the breeder needs to ensure that the food is kept as fresh as possible and does not grow fungus, turn stale, go rancid or dehydrate. However, if it is an important element in the nutrional state of the bird, the breeder is obliged if not obligated to continue.
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| Do lovebird eat meat? | An interesting question. They do require protein, as do many
animals, including herbivores. Protein is often (and we think most
breeders will tell you that they prefer it) supplied in other ways,
such as through the provision of boiled eggs and a variety of beans (pinto,
kidney, black-eyed).
Raw meat or cooked meat is not something we have ever provided, although lovebirds will occassionaly cannibalize young birds (chicks and juveniles) in specific instances, as will many other species. |
| How old do lovebirds get? | This is a question that has elicited a variety of responses and discussion,
which we will sum up for you here. Most breeders believe that a captive
lovebird will live for 15 to 20 years with care and attention. Some
breeders though, will remove their birds from breeding at 5 to 7 years
of age, despite the fact that they can continue to breed well, far beyond
this age. Unfortunately, there seems to be a fear that the birds
germplasm breaks down with age, and the potential for damaged offspring
increases.
The productive captive breeding age is felt to be between 1 and 6 years for the majority of breeders. Depending on the breeder's goal, the germplasm of certain individuals will be passed on within a number of generations and the original or parent bird becomes inferior to the offspring, at which point it is sold. In the wild, where the birds face continuous culling through a variety of means, the average age has been postulated as 2 1/2 years, which makes sense given the potential loss of life in the nest, parental and juvenile units and weather related struggles, not to mention man's interference. Young birds in the wild begin breeding "activities" or behaviors at approximately two months. When these young birds actually go to nest has not been recorded, as far as we know, although it is likely that they are mature enough following the molt. Captive birds are discouraged from breeding until they re a minimum of 10 to 12 months and some breeders wait as long as 16 months or 2 years (ST) or more before "allowing" the birds to mate. |
| Why are chicks all different sizes? | Lovebirds lay their eggs, usually, on an every other day basis.
The hen usually starts brooding in earnest after the third egg is
laid. However, the hen returns to the box every night and for a good
part of the day, so while the eggs may not be receiving all of the brooding
attention, the early eggs are still developing under the female.
The consequence is chocks that often hatch on alternate days , and this
leaves a huge size discrepancy among the eldest and the most recently hatched.
The mechanism is referreed to as asynchronous laying or hatching, and like
the canary or budgie, some breeders, prefer to remove, replace the
eggs until the third is laid, and then put them back under the hen, so
that they all hatch at the same time. This is a tremendous amount
of work for the hen, and though successful should be undertaken only by
knowledgeable breeders.
The large size discrepancy between the young, (greater with the a lot of eggs), can often result in the youngest being squashed, trampled or starved by their eager, aggressive nest mates. |
| What mutation is the best to get? | The answer here is as individual as there are people. There is no perfect bird or mutation, and you as the purchaser select the mutation or species / sub-species that most appeals to you, fits your own needs and expectations and is something you admire. Most individuals can afford the more common varieties or mutations, but they start to increase quickly in price and restricted availability as you seek out new mutations. Several years will pass before you ever obtain an opportunity to buy a relatively established mutation at a reasonable cost (or at least at a cost that reflects other mutation values on the market). |
| Do Judges really know what they are talking about? | This is a good question, and the answer is that there are always good
ones, mediocre ones and just plain bad ones. The bad ones assume
an arrogant stance and refuse to listen to reason or questioning of long
established positions. The mediocre ones dislike controversy and have a
difficult time making a decision, although the decision is often very obvious
to the very interested and involved breeder and bystander. The good
ones are willing to listen to new and sometimes controversial positions
and are more interested in the knowledge and how it might be applied, than
in how they might be perceived.
It has been our experience that the European judges are more informed and flexible in addressing new issues and technical data. Hybridization is not an anathema to them, and they are usually aware of what is being contemplated and being incorporated. This tends to provide them with much better access to and evaluation of what constitutes hybridized forms or expression. This does not always hold true however. For those across the pond, this is not a reflection on your judging practices or knowledge, but the realization that the overwhelming work on generating delightful transmutations is not done over there. |
| Should judges involve themselves in discussions or avoid them for fear of ostracism? | Well our lovebird world would be a better place if more participated.
A judge that will not or cannot state their particular feelings regarding
a bird, concept or position ( as it relates to lovebirds) or is afraid
of the consequences of their own involvement is letting down the lovebird
community and the lovebirds they have been so eager to judge.
To us, it is a judges responsibility to make their positions clear, and their concerns with the current system. We are doing everything we can in terms of making others aware of past and current unresolved issues in this e-book. Some have participated quite magnanimously in this e-book and their depth and breadth of knowledge has been clearly evident, and for their willingness to share, we are extremely grateful. For non-judges, it is sometimes difficult to become involved, and we
understand that, but judges need to be involved and discuss issues with
their counterparts. We all need to keep our skills sharp and that
can only be accomplished through discussion and the exchange of ideas,
thoughts and on- going activities.
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